Welcome readers, today we’re talking cruising the EXUMAS Bahamas.
The Exumas islands is a chain of 365+ islands and cays known for scenic anchorages, swimming pigs, nurse sharks, dramatic shades of blue, green and turquoise waters.
We begin our trip getting underway from Miami Florida onboard 92 Horizon Trideck. I am freelancing as a temp Captain onboard for this trip. (This season, I’ve been mostly busy in career advancement courses at M.P.T., and that’s covered with another coming blog post coming soon!)
Navigating between Florida and the Bahamas includes traveling through a portion of the Gulfstream current which is a major ocean current influencing the wind and waves conditions of our passage. Whenever the wind is Northerly direction, waves in the Gulf stream can quickly build-up to a hazardous state. With the approaching cold front, we decide to depart 2 days ahead of schedule to make a safe weather passage.
The first stop in our itinerary is Nassau, on the island of New Providence. Nassau is the largest city and capital of the Bahamas. It is a primary transportation hub where we often like to meet / pick up our guests before traveling to farther, more remote islands. We complete this leg of our journey around 14 hours at cruise speed, averaging 12 knots along the way. We reach the Clifton Bay anchorage just as the sun is setting over the horizon, and settle in for a night on anchor.
By morning, we watch the sun come up over the island and pull anchor to head in to our slip at the Lyford Cay Yacht Club. Lyford Cay is a private club on the west end of New Providence offering five-star amenities and a well-protected harbor with generous, easy-access slips for larger yachts. We spend the next few days docked at the marina with guests onboard enjoying shoreside activities.
At Lyford fuel docks we bunker 1000 gallons of fuel at $5.45/gallon with VAT included.
By the week-end, we’re up early and cruising onwards to our first island stop in the Exumas: Highbourne Cay. This day, we slow our cruising speed down to an easy 9 knots and settle in for 7 hours of travel across the shallow Exuma banks. It’s important in this area of the passage to watch for uncharted coral heads that could be a navigational hazard, so I choose to stand watch from the flybridge helm to allow a better view.
We arrive to Highbourne with plenty of the afternoon remaining to explore a bit by land and become acquainted with the local flora and fauna. The “village” of this island simply consists of the marina, dockhouse, bar/restaurant, and rental cottages. Golf carts are available to rent but mostly not needed as the best views can be taken-in right from the marina. Highbourne offers sweeping blues of every shade with leeward (a protected from the wind) side where the resort offers beach bonfires and water swings.
At Highbourne we do not bunker any fuel but noted Diesel rates $5.69/gallon GAS $6.13/gallon. Shore power $130/night for each 100 amp cord 1-phase. Water $.50c/ gallon.
With only a short overnight stay with Highbourne Cay, by morning we carry-on with our south-bound tour onto Compass Cay. Compass Cay lies 40 nautical miles south along the Exuma chain. Compass Cay is known for being an undeveloped unspoiled island where the magic of wildlife abounds. Navigating through the narrow approach requires expert local knowledge and tide planning as most of the channel is unmarked and ever-changing due to the shifting sand and strong tidal currents moving in confusing directions all the way to the docks. I highly recommend a local guide if this is your first time visiting.
Compass Cay is known for their resident Nurse sharks who love to hang out on the fish cleaning docks, and will allow a pat from any tourist (or crew) willing to swim with them.
In the evening, we bring onboard a local Bahamian Chef Nunufergie from Blackpoint to prepare dinner onboard for our guests. Nunu prepares local favorites including two of my favorites: Spiny lobsters, and Bahamian Mac N Cheese.
Before long, its time to go again, onwards to our final cruising stop on this trip: Staniel Cay Yacht Club. Staniel Cay is 12 nautical miles south along the Exuma islands chain from Compass Cay. This short distance makes for a short mid-morning run, but a world of difference lies between the two islands. If Compass is the wilderness, Staniel is the big city. Staniel Cay is the home to the airport hub offering regular commercial flights from Exumas to Nassau by Makers Air and Western Air. This accessibility translates to a busy, high energy hot spot with lots of tourism buzzing.
We find our rightful dock slip on the face docks at Staniel, and after a quick washdown, and Conch salad lunch by Mr. Saltee, its back in action to a tender ride to the neighboring island of Pipe Cay, to spend the last afternoon taking in warm sand, cool breeze, beach combing. This will be our last nights stay in Exumas, and I depart by plane first thing in the morning.
Pipe Cay is a stunning island undergoing the construction of a future fully off-grid marina and village. However, in the meantime, it remains a completely untouched and unspoiled destination, offering visitors the chance to immerse themselves in its dramatic sand flats and pristine deserted beaches that adorn every cove. As a privately-owned property, Pipe Cay is not open to the public; therefore, it’s advisable to make connections and secure an invitation to experience its natural beauty firsthand. With its unspoiled landscapes and secluded charm, Pipe Cay promises an exclusive and unforgettable experience for those lucky enough to gain access. 😉
Finally, the taste of the Exumas tour has drawn to a close, leaving behind a tapestry of memories that will forever linger in our hearts. As I bid adieu to this mesmerizing paradise, the tranquil azure waters and the gentle sway of palm trees serve as a poignant reminder of the beauty I am blessed to behold. From the vibrant marine life to the secluded cays, every moment is a testament to the raw, untamed allure of this tropical haven. Though our time here has reached its conclusion, the indelible charm of the Exumas will continue to beckon us, whispering tales of adventure and serenity amidst the sun-kissed splendor.
Total Trip Milage 330nm. Total Fuel burn 1800 gal.
